Permanent waving



Jan. 14, 1936.

H. N. DURHAM ET AL PERMANENT WAVING Original Filed Nov. 7, 1932 ilk 0 IINVENTORS i fl 7ATT8TQNEY$ Patented Jan. 14,1936

assignors to Eugene, Ltd., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York 4 Original application lilovember v, 1932, Serial No. 641,576. Divided and this application April 3, 1935, Serial N0. 14,405. In Great Britain April The invention relates to new and useful improvements in permanent wavin and more especially to such improvements both in the process and in the instrumentalities for carrying out said improved process.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned by practice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements, combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawing, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrates one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serves to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawing:

. Figure-lis an elevation, with parts in section, of the embodied instrumentalities applied to steaming a tres of living hair;

Figure 2 is a section taken on line 2--2 of Figure 1; and

Figure 3 is an elevation of the exterior electrode and absorbent for the curl steaming device.

The present applicationv is a division of our copending application Ser. No. 641,576 filed No. vember '1, 1932.

Objects and advantages attained by our invention are the creation of a deep and brilliant wave for both beauty and great permanency; the invention attaining these results by adequate and thorough steaming of all parts of the curls, while automatically guarding against damage from injurious or uncontrolled heat action. To

this end, we insure the penetration of steam entirely through the curl, preferably effecting the steam penetration both from the inside outwardy and from the outside inwardly. Concurrently with thorough through and through steaming of the curl the invention provides heat action whereby substantially the lowest eflicient temperature is established and maintained, the correct amount of steaming is insured, andall danger of damage to the hair from over-heating or dry-heating is prevented. To this end the invention provides automatic temperature and time control of the heat, inherent in the process and apparatus, and entirely independent of care and vigilance by the operator. There is thereby insured thorough and adequate steaming with concurrent safeguards against damage.

14 Claim. (01. 21944) Our invention also eflects economy and safety of operation by great simplification of the steaming apparatus and the avoidance therein of high voltages, unnecessarily high temperatures, and by preventing useless, wasteful and annoying radiation. .The comfort of the customer, an important factor in beauty treatment, is greatly enhanced by elimination .of the greater part of the weight applied to and carried by the customers head during curl steaming with the usual apparatus; and at the same time great radiation of heat, such as is generated by the usual heating sockets, is largely obviated. Likewise the operator is relieved from the usual care and responsibility of time and temperature control, and the apparatus handled is very much lighter and simpler .and avoids danger from burning and the carrying of high voltages. Furthermore, the power drawn by the apparatus is very low,

. thereby greatly reducing power consumption and operating expense. I

By our invention, the steaming is effected by electrolytic conduction through the waving solution acting directly adjacent to and throughout the curls; that is, the waving solution for the curl is electrically vaporized and directly steams the curl. A low voltage and. current only are required, steaming temperature and action are quickly established and maintained, and there is no danger of excessive temperatures. The steaming may be closely regulated by predetermining the quantity of waving solution used as electrolyte; and danger. of dry heating (scorching) or too prolonged heating is avoided by the fact that the current automatically cuts oil when the solution is completely dissipated. Our invention includes also greatly simplified and inexpensive novel means and apparatus, made possible by our novel process, as will be later fully' set forth.

In the present preferred form, the heat and vapor are generated, at least in part, within a waving solution which lies on and between the, hairs comprising the curl. That is, the curl to be waved is wetted with the electrolyte or electrolytically conductive waving solution and is positioned between two electrodes so that the heating current passes through solution which is on and between the hairs of the curl. Thus the curl lies within the electrolyticheating circuit, and the heat and vapor are generated directly upon and within the curl so there is no possible loss of temperature or vapor which usually occurs between the heating element and the Preferably the curlis also steamed from the interior outwardly, that is, by heat and vapor issuing from within the curl supp rt.

In the preferred embodiment of said novel means and apparatus, the electrolytically conducting circuits, with the waving solution forming the electrolyte, constitute the inside mounting, and outside wrapping of the curl; and the steam or vapor generated by the current flow in the solution acts directly and immediately to steam the curls. These novel instrumentalities whereby the complete steaming is effected with the advantages pointed out, compare favorably in size and weight with the common mandrels and sachets, which usually serve to merely support and moisten the curl; and we thus dispense entirely with the numerous high resistance heating sockets with their attendant expense, weight, cumbersomeness and discomfort and a certain degree of danger both from burning and high voltages. Concurrently with the saving and simplification in apparatus, the advantages previously generally pointed out are realized. By the electrolyticconduction through the waving solution any danger from high temperatures and voltages near the operator and customer are avoided, together with the discomforts of waste radiation; and the vaporizing of the waving solution both from within and without the curl, insures thorough steaming action. of great importanceis the automatic safeguarding, inherent in the invention, which prevents excessive heating, with consequent damage to the hair, and which guards against possible neglect or oversight by the operator, as the generation of heat in the liquid itself-prevents the temperature rising above the boiling point, and both the steaming and heating cease when the predetermined quantity of the electrolyte has been dissociated.

As we preferably practice our invention, the curls are wound on foraminous mandrels, which are part of an electrolytically conducting circuit, the mandrel being preferably hollow, the electrolyte and an electrode being within the mandrel. Thus in our preferred form the actual heating action, as well as the steaming, occurs within the curl, the steam passing through the mandrel to steam the interior of the curl. Means are provided, when desired, for replenishing the electrolyte or ionizing solvent during the steaming, and thus the steaming may be prolonged for a desired period beyond the capacity of the mandrel. The electrolyte is preferably introduced within the mandrel by means of an absorbent member conveniently carried upon the internal conductor or electrode.

The steaming of the curls from the exterior inwardly, in our preferred embodiment, .is effected by a device which in its operation and effect is a combined sachet and electrolytic heating device. Its preferred embodiment comprises an impervious flexible metallic outside wrapper for the curl, which is also an electrode, with an intermediate absorbent layer in which the waving solution is absorbed. The

curl itself is wetted with the electrolyte, either absorbent layer and in the hair. The resistance to electrolytic conduction vaporlzes the waving solution in the absorbent layer and in the hair. The usual resistance heating sockets, with their great weight, high voltage, excessive and waste radiation are dispensed with, and our novel combined device is practically as simple in construction and of hardly greater weight than the usual sachet.

Our entire waving machine or curl steaming device for concurrently steaming all the curls on the head, is therefore exceedingly simple, comprising simply a step-down transformer or resistor, a simple bus-bar, and connectors corresponding to the number of curls, the connectors having simple terminal connections for electrically connecting them to the mandrels and to the outside steaming device. Most of the expense, apparatus, weight, heat and other disadvantages of the known waving machines is avoided.

The hair waving solution or lotion preferably employed comprises an ionizing solvent in which is dissolved a volatile hair softening compound with or without the addition of a fixed, and preferably neutral salt, or other compound. The ionizing solvent is generally water, the volatfle hair softening compound dissolved therein may be ammonia or ammonium carbonate,

' while a suitable fixed salt is sodium bicarbonate.

The use of the fixed salt is not essential, but is often desirable as it increases and maintains the conductivity of the solution. In addition to these ingredients, other ingredients such as oils, coloring matter, perfume and the like may be added as desired.

The foregoing general statement of the invention, and the following detailed description as well, are illustrative and exemplary of the invention, but are not restrictive thereof.

Referring now in detail to the embodiment of the invention illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing, there is shown in Figure 1 a curled tress of living hair being steamed both interiorly and exteriorly by electrolytic conduction. The curled tress I, growing from the head, has been woundinto a curl about the foraminate mandrel 5, the mandrel being hollow as shown in Fig. 1, the walls thereof having perforations 6 for the passage of steam from the interior of the mandrel into the curl. The mandrel has preferably at its lower end means whereby it may be attached to the curl very close"'to the scalp. The upper end 8 of the mandrel ispreferably open.

In accordance with one feature of the invention, the waving solution is applied as an electrolyte within the mandrel, and is converted into steam by the electrolytic action, the steam passing through the openings 6 to steam the curl. In the embodied form, an electrolyte absorbing member is mounted on a metallic support l3, which likewise constitutes one of the electrodes, the metallic mandrel 5 constituting the other electrode. The current passing between the electrodes 5 and I3 and through the waving solution carried by the absorptive member l2 gen.- erates steam from the waving solution, which passing through the openings 6 steams the curl from the interior outwardly. In addition to the simplicity and efliciency of .the means for steaming the interior of the curl, there are the additional advantages of the exceedingly low voltage and current employed, the avoidance of excessive temperatures and maintenance of the temperature approximately at the steaming point, and that the current automatically cuts of! when the electrolyte becomes exhausted.

The invention also provides meansfor steaming the curl from the exterior inwardly and also generating heat and vapor within the waving solution which lies on and between the individual hairs comprising the curl. In the embodied form of exterior electrolytic conduction steaming means, the invention provides as a new article a combined sachet and electrolytically-conducting heating device adapted to coact with the mandrel as one electrode. In its embodied form it comprises a flexible absorptive layer which takes up the waving solution electrolyte and an impervious flexible metallic outer layer or wrapper constituting the outer electrode. As embodied, the solution-absorbing member I! may be of flannel, felt or other suitable material. The outer layer or wrapper I9 is preferably of impervious foil.

As shown in Fig. 3, the absorbent sheet I pref-' erably extends toward the scalp to form, beyond the lower edge of the electrode IS, an appreciable margin 22 which, when the device is applied to a curl, does not lie directly between the two electrodes and therefore is practically unheated by passage of current through it as its resistance is much greater than that of the remainder of the absorbent material due to the longer current path through this margin. In practice this non-heating margin serves to protect the scalp as any heated liquid extruded through the upper part of the absorbent It must traverse said cooler margin before escaping. toward the scalp.

The exterior steaming device possesses all of the advantages already set forth in connection with the interior steaming device, and in addition it performs the double function of the usual sachet or lotion-applying means and also does away with the cumbersome resistance coils usually employed to heat and steam the curls by radiation. A clip 24 may be used about the bottom of the sachet to clamp it about the curl, and a damming washer 25 may be used to insure against hot liquid running down and burning the scalp.

The embodied form of circuit connections are shown in Figs. 1 and 2 and comprise a cap-like member 3| of insulating material, having a cen.' tral oriflce adapted to pass onto and to flt over the exterior end of the mandrel tube 5. A spring contact 32 mounted in an internal recess in member 3| engages the upper exterior part of the mandrel and both makes electrical contact with the mandrel and holds the cap on by spring pressure. The strip 32 connects electrically with the binding post It for the circuit wire. A plurality of spring clips 31 are mounted in the cap 3|, and contact with the exterior electrode is of the outer combined sachetand heater. These clips at their other ends, beyond their seats in the' cap piece 3|, extend inwardly and at said inner ends 38 make spring contact with the inner electrode I! in the cell within the mandrel. The spring conducting clips 31 are mounted on and electrically connected with a conducting ring 39 within the cap 3| and connect by a binding screw 40 with the other circuit wire. In

this arrangement the mandrel 5 constitutes a common electrode for both the inside and outside steaming devices, and the outer layer IQ of the sachet and the interior member it within the mandrel constitute electrodes of opposite polarity. Both electrolytic cells are thus supplied with current from a single pair of circuit wires. and the steam generated by electrolytic conduction steams the curl concurrently from the inside outwardly and from the outside inwardly.

If desired, however, the inner electrode l3 and absorbent material |2 may be omitted, the entire steaming of the curl being effected between the outer electrode l9 and the mandrel electrode 5.

In accordance with one feature of the invention means are provided, if desired, for replenishing the electrolyte during the steaming operation to prolong the steaming beyond the period permitted by the capacity of the electrolytic cell itself. It is shown applied to the interior of the mandrel, and asembodied a flexible reservoir 43 is mounted in an upwardly extending mouth or cup-like portion formed in the upper part of the cap 3|, and by compressing the reservoir the electrolyte within it may be forced downwardly and will flow to the interior of the mandrel.

It will be understood that when the curls are all wound, and the electrolyte carrying member I2 is within each mandrel, and the electrolytic sachet is wrapped about the exterior of the curl the corresponding member 3| is slipped over the end of the mandrel and forms the circuits as already described. In practice, a plurality of the contact members 3| are connected in parallel to the secondary of a variable voltage step-down transformer which is used to bring down the voltage to about three to twelve volts, depending upon the rate of steaming desired, the primary of the transformer being suitably connected to the service circuit. Thus the heating machine is exceedingly simple, carrying current of a very low and harmless voltage, while the heating devices on the customers head are themselves very light in weight and radiate a minimum quantity of heat. The details of the heating machine, which constitute no essential part of the present invention, are more fully shown and described in our parent copending application Serial No. 641,576.

In practice it is found that the current consumed by the heating means for a single curl rises to a maximum during the very short time necessary to heat the waving solution to the boiling point. Thereafter the current quickly drops to a very low value and this amount of current is sufficient to maintain steaming so long as any electrolyte remains in the circuit. Furthermore, steaming commences almost immediately upon closing the circuit and the time required for adequate steaming of the curls is thereby greatly shortened.

In the operation of the particular embodiments previously described, the electric current is conducted through the hair waving solution absorbed on the pad l6 and among the hairs of the curl and/or member l2, and as the relatively heavy electric current passes through the solution, the solution is heated by heat generated within the solution due to the resistance of the waving solution or electrolyte to the passage of the electric current. This heating of the electrolyte increases the vapor pressure of the ammonia to cause a slow liberation of ammonia, and when the temperature has been raised sufflciently water, vapor and steam are also driven off from the electrolyte. As the heating continues, the flow of ammonia and steam continues, and some oxygen and hydrogen is liberated at both electrodes. In case a flxed salt, such as sodium bicarbonate, is used, said salt is also decomposed at the electrodes, but due to the rapid reversal of polarity, the electrolytic decomposition is immediately followed by chemical combination so that the composition of the electroylte is not materially changed, except for the liberation of ammonia and the gradual concentration due to the decomposition and vaporization of the water.

When alternating current is employed at least one electrode is preferably of a metal having a high conductivity in both directions at the electrode-electrolyte interface.

It will be understood, of course, that many other specific compounds and materials can be used in connection with the apparatus and method described, and that the operation is not dependent upon the specific compositions employed.

While the invention has been shown and described as preferably applied to tresses of hair wound helically upon mandrels from their root ends outward, the novel features of the invention are not limited to such application. For example the invention may also be employed with the so-called Croquignole wave in which a flat tress of hair is wound spirally from the outer ends toward the roots.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific manner of carrying out the steps, nor to'the specific form of means herein disclosed, but departures may be made therefrom without departing from the main principles of the invention and without sacrificing its chief advantages.

What we claim is:

1. In permanent waving the method of heating and steaming a tress of hair which comprises the steps of moistening the tress with an electrolyte, placing the tress between two electrodes, and generating heat and vapor in the electrolyte on and between the hairs of the moistened tress by passing electric current through said electrolyte by connecting the electrodes to circuit terminals of opposite polarities.

2. The process of permanently waving hair comprising maintaining an electrode adjacent the interior of a wound curl, maintaining an electrolytically-conductive liquid on and among the hairs forming the curl, positioning another electrode exteriorly of the curl, and passing electric current through the liquid on the hair from one electrode to another.

3. The process of permanently waving hair comprising maintaining an electrode adjacent the interior of a wound curl, maintaining an electrolytically-conductive liquid on and among the hairs forming the curl, positioning another electrode exteriorly of the curl and shaping and compressing said electrode to conform to the shape of the curl, and passing electric current through the liquidpon the hair from one electrode to another.

4. The process of permanently waving hair comprisingmaintaining an electrode adjacent the interior of a wound curl, maintaining an electrolytically-conductive liquid on and among the hairs forming the curl, positioning an absorbent member and another electrode exteriorly of the curl, and passing electric current through the liquid on the hair from one electrode to another.

5. In the process of permanent waving the steps of winding a tress about a member having an electrically conductive surface, maintaining electrolytically conductive liquid on and among the hairs of the tress, positioning an electrode exteriorly of the tress and passing current between said member and the exterior electrode through the liquid on and among the hairs of the tress.

6. In a device for permanently waving hair wherein the heating action is effected by the resistance of a liquid to electrolytic conduction, the combination of two electrodes to be placed adjacent a wound curl and means for maintaining electrolytically conductive liquid in contact with the two electrodes to complete the heating deformable to provide means for shaping it to conform to the curl and to facilitate formation of an efiiciently conducting electrolytic circuit by placing and maintaining it in contact with the solution. v

7. In a device for permanently waving hair in which hair is heated by the resistance of a liquid to the electrolytic conduction of current, the combination of a pair. of electrodes to be placed addacent to a wound curl between which the current is to be passed through the solution, one of said electrodes being flexible, deformable and vapor-impervious whereby the hair and waving solution may be substantially enclosed and the electrode may be placed and maintained in contact with the solution.

8. In a device for permanently waving hair in which hair is heated by the resistance to the electrolytic conduction of current, the combination of a pair of electrodes between which the current is passed through the solution, one of said electrodes forming a support on which the hair may be wound under tension while the other electrode is a vapor-impervious, deformable fiexible member to be positioned about the outside of the wound hair and is maintained in contact with the solution and prevents rapid escape of the vapors from the heated solution.

9. In the process of permanent waving the steps of winding a tress about a member having an electrically conductive surface, maintaining electrolytically conductive liquid on and among the hairs of the tress, positioning an electrode exteriorly of the tress and passing current between said member and the exterior electrode through the liquid on' and among the hairs of the tress and supplying additional hair-waving liquid to the interior of the wound tress.

10. A permanent waving device including a hollow cylindrical metal electrode positionable adjacent to a curled tress, a cylindrical absorbent member adapted to fit within said electrode, a second electrodemounted within and surrounded by the absorbent member, said absorbent member and second electrode being formed as a unit and being together insertable within and removable from said hollow electrode to form an electrolytic heater for the tress when the absorbent member is moist with electrolyte.

an electrolytic heater for the tress when the absorbent member is moist with electrolyte, the absorbent member and one of said electrode members being formed as a unit and being removable and replaceable together with respect to the other electrode.

. circuit, one of said electrodes being flexible and 12. In an electrolytic device for permanent waving comprising an electrode about which a curl is wound, another electrode exteriorly of the curl, and electrolyte supporting means between said electrodes, the combination of contact means for energizing the electrodes including a contact member movable axially of the interior electrode to make contact therewith and a contact memberof opposite polarity movable to overlie the exterior electrode and compress it against the inner electrode.

13. In an electrolytic device for permanent waving comprising an electrode about which a curl is wound, another electrode exteriorly of the curl, and electrolyte supporting means between said electrodes, the combination of contact means for energizing the electrodes including a contact member movable axially of the interior electrode to make contact therewith and a contact member of opposite polarity comprising a plurality of resilient fingers movable to overlie the exterior electrode and compress it against the inner electrode.

14. The process of permanently waving hair comprising maintaining an electrode adjacent the interior of a wound curl, maintaining an electrolytically-conductive hair-waving liquid on and among the hairs forming the curl, positioning another electrode exteriorly oi the curl, and passing electric current through the liquid on the hair from one electrode to another,

HOBART N. DURHAM. GEORGE B. FJNNEGAN, Jr. 

